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75 km from Chennai,it is one of the Seven most Sacred
cities and nakareshu Kanchi" is a popular saying in Sanskrit that means kanchipurarn is the city. It was the captial city of the Pallavas and the northern capital of the Cholas. Even during the Vijayanagar period, it was also a centre of learning and a centre for buddhists and
Jains in early time. The chinese traveller Hieun-Tsang has visited Kanchipuram and
praises its glory and painfully notes the declining trend of Buddhism in his accounts. It also a world famous centre for weaving Kanchi Pattu- 'the Silk
of one and all and one can really see silk looms in action and find out how beautiful sarees are made. It is temple city and innumerable ancient temples could be seen at every turning. A selective list of most important temples
are given here. The whole city is divided into Siva Kanchi, Vishnu Kanchi and
Jain Kanchi.
Kailasanathar Temple: This Shiva temple is one of the earliest
temples built by Rajasimha Pallava in the late 7th century A.D. The front was
added by Mahendra Varma III later on. It is the only temple of the original
Pallava architecture not cluttered with additions by Cholas and Vijayanagar
kings and remains a fine specimen of freshness and simplicity of early
Dravidian architecture. True to its name, Kailas or Paradise, it shelters all
the gods in various aspects in several niches in perambulatory around the
sanctum sanctorum. One has to crawl through a small opening to enter it and has
to come out of a pit at the end. It is believed that by doing this exercise one
will reach Kailas after his sojourn on the earth. Puranas unroll themselves
through sculptures to our view. Pallava paintings are also visible in fragments
in some niches. These murals remind us the rnagni-ficence of the temple as it
would have looked when it was first built. The Archaeological Survey of India
is nearby and one could get more details about the history and importance of
Kanchipuram.
Valkunthaperumal Temple: This Vishnu shrine was built between
674-850 AD by Pallava king Pararneswara Varman and Nandivarrnan II. Here the
Pallava history is revealed in reliefs all along the corridors. Their dress,
costumes, jewellery and habits are captured in exquisite splendour. The shrine
has two storeys and enshrines Lord Vishnu in them. Such storeyed temple is called "Maadak Kovil"
in Tamil. The walls have rich puranic sculpture. Lion pillars adorn the
cloisters inside the outer wall.
Ekambaranathar Temple: This Shiva temple is
the largest and is spread over nine hectares. Its huge gopuram or portal tower
is 192 feet high and its massive outer walls were constructed by Krishna
Devaraya, the great Vijayanagar king in 1509. The original shrine dates back to
the Pallava period, additions have also been made by Cholas. Five separate enclosures and a thousand-pillared hall and
a beautiful big tank are inside the temple. 'Elm Ararat means 'a single mango
tree' and the lord is known as Ekambaranathar. It is one of the five element
(Prithvi or Earth) shrines of Shiva and the lingam is made of earth. A single
mango tree is seen behind the sanctum — a very old tree indeed with four
branches representing the four vedas, the age of which is fabulously said to be
35,000 years. It is also said that the fruit of each branch has a different
taste. Near the tank is a small cell for Valiswara erected by Mahendra Varma
Pallavan. At the back of the lingam, Shiva and Parvathi image is sculptured.
The hall of Nataraja the cosmicdancer has some interesting frescoes in the
ceiling. The 'Maavadi Sevai' festival attracts huge crowds.
Kamakshi Amman Temple: This is the most
important temple and the chief deity of Kanchipuram. 'Karachi Kamakshi' is a
popular saying and it has been sanctified by Adi Sankara and he has stationed
before the goddess a Sri Chakra said to be containing the efficiency of power
of the Devi. There is no separate sanctum for Shiva here. There is a separate
sanctum for Adi Sankara.
Varadaraja Perumal Temple: This Vishnu temple was
built during the Vijayanagar period. This is another big temple having 5
enclosures with massive outer wall and a hundred-pillared hall. One exquisite,
sculptural marvel is a huge chain carved out of single piece of stone. The
sanctum on a small hillock faces west and displays murals in its ceiling. One
should not miss to see the golden- lizard here. The 100-pillared hall is a
perfect specimen of Vijayanagara art and architecture.
Mukteeswara and
Matanges-warar temples are also Pallava relics with fine specimens of art and
architecture. Ashtabujam temple is in the heart of Vishnu Kanchi where the
multi-handed Vishnu armed to teeth with various weapons is seen in the act of
rescuing Gajendra, the elephant
one secret way connect to all kanchipuram Temples
devotee from the clutches of the crocodile. There is another temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu called "Ulagalantha Perumal" which depicts the Viswaroopa taken by Vishnu to defeat Mahabali, the demon king. The deity raising one Of its legs measuring the space (sky) is featured here — awe-inspiring and thrilling sight. The famous commentator of Thirukkural, Parimel Azhagar was once the Poojari of this temple.
devotee from the clutches of the crocodile. There is another temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu called "Ulagalantha Perumal" which depicts the Viswaroopa taken by Vishnu to defeat Mahabali, the demon king. The deity raising one Of its legs measuring the space (sky) is featured here — awe-inspiring and thrilling sight. The famous commentator of Thirukkural, Parimel Azhagar was once the Poojari of this temple.
Jain Kanchi: In the south-west beyond the
river Vegavadhi — one of the tributaries of Palar — stands a group of Jain
temples. This place is known as 'Tiruparuthi Kundram'. This belongs to the
early Chola period. There is a sangeetha mandapam (music hall) in this temple
dedicated to Varthamana Mahavira — the roof of which are adorned with
paintings, illustrating the lives of Tirthankaras. Rare Jain manu-scripts are also
preserved in this temple. There are a few of the most important temples in
Kanchi-puram and there are umpteen number of them old and new. The most
important of the recent one is the Kumarakkottam - a temple dedicated to Lord
Muruga. The Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam heads the holy Sankaracharyas called
Jagadgurus reside in Kanchi at their headquarters and give darshan to devotees.
Tourists can reach Kanchipuram by rail or by bus and hiring a taxi or
autorickshaw will do to cover the temples mentioned, in a single day.
Maduranthagam - Erikatha Perumal Koil:
Maduranthagam is about 80 km south of Chennai on the Trunk Road to Trichi. The
biggest lake of the district with a bund 13,000 feet long and when full its
depth would be 100 feet. It irrigates about 3000 acres of surrounding villages.
This lake was cut by the Cholas. In the close of the 18th century when Colonel
Lionel Place was the collector, furious monsoon brought unprecedented rains and
the lake was full and there was danger of the bund giving way at any moment.
When the collector encamped here and was examining the bunds, he saw the huge
figure of Rama with his bow in his hand on the bund. The rain stopped and the
breach was averted by divine grace. The collector in token of his respect and
gratitude built a sanctum for Sita —the consort of Rama — in the temple that
stands near the bunds of the lake. The Rama here is hence known as 'Erikatha
Rama' or the Rama who guarded the lake. There is also a Siva temple and the
Bairava statue here is of exquisite splendour. There once flourished a vedic
centre in this place.
Sri Perumpudur Temple: It is midway between Chennai and
Kanchipuram and the birthplace of Saint Ramanuja, 'the propounder of
Visishtadvaita philosophy'. The shrine has been improved by Vijayanagar kings.
The pillars are exquisite and bear testimony to Vijayanagar architecture. The
image of Ramanuja is also installed in this Vishnu shrine.
Thiruttani Murugan
Temple: This famous Murugan shrine is about 80 km from Chennai and can be
reached either by train or by bus.It is the place where Lord Muruga after
killing Demon Surapadman has softened his fury. The shrine stands on a basaltic
hill reached by a flight of 365 steps (each step represents a day of the year)
or by vehicle through a road. On New Year Day, lakhs of pilgrims climb the
steps chanting Bhajans. The temple is of Pallava origin. Saints like
Arunagirinathar, Kachiyappa Munivar, Muthusami Dikshitar and Ramalinga Adigal
have sung songs in praise of Thiruttani Lord Muruga. During Krithigai days,
'kavadis' used to be taken up the hill by a large number of devotees. On the
slope of the hills is a herbal farm.
In the eastern end of the town downhill on
the river bank is a temple dedicated to Siva. Veerattaneswara is the presiding
deity. This was built by the Pallava king Aparajitha. It is a black granite
temple of the closing years of Pallavas with an apsidal vimana with parivara
devathas in niches all round the outer wall. The sanctum here is a forerunner
of present-day shrines. Thiru Alangadu Temple: This is ,1 unique Siva temple 37
miles west of Chennai. The Nataraja bronze idol is with the rare dancing pose
called Oorthuva Thandava lifting his leg upwards. This was done to subdue Kali
in a dance bout as being a female %he could not do so out of modesty. An image
of dancing Kali is also kept hen'. It was the place where Karaikkal Ammaiyar,
one of the 63 Saivaite saints attained mukthi. Her image is a unique piece of
art exposing the filatures of an old lady, bones ;moll uding, shrivelled bosom
and sunken eyes.
Tirupathi Temple: This temple town is in
the State of Andhra Pradesh, 180 km from Chennai. Daily 2 train services and
every half an hour, bus services are operated from Chennai. Besides, private
vehicles and tourist coaches are also available. Down the hill there is a
shrine for Govindaraja Perumal and at Thiruchanur, for Alarmelmanga Thayar, the
consort of Lord Vishnu. 13 kms up the hill is Tirumala, the famous shrine of
Sri Venkateswara popularly known as Balaji. In Tamil, this is called
'Venkadam'. One has to cross seven hills to reach the temple. Pucca road is
available, besides many pilgrims prefer to climb the seven hills on the steps.
Lakhs of people throng from all parts of India everyday and one has to wait in
the queue for 3 or 4 hours and on festive occasions more than 8 to 9 hours to
have darshan of the deity. Thousands of devotees tonsure their heads here and
they make a vow to do so if their desires are fulfilled. Tirupathi temple has
the largest revenue everyday touching several lakhs of rupees. Each day is a
wedding day to Lord Venkateswara and by contributing a handsome sum one can
perform this ceremony to the Lord. Tirupathi laddu and vada — the prasadams of
this Lord are sold to public. It is a popular item and no pilgrim ever misses
to buy it, standing for hotirs in long queues. Umpteen number of lodges and Devasthanam
(temple) guest houses and cottages are available. The places mentioned above
are located around Chennai could easily be reached by bus or taxis and after a
day trip tourists could return to Chennai for their night stay.
